Rethymno

Rethymno… beautiful town with a wonderful venetian port, narrow streets where you can find anything from food to traditional handcrafts. Once you are in Rethymno, definitely go to the Venetian castle called Fortezza which is situated right by the sea. Overall Rethymno is actually my favourite town, unfortunately do not have the chance to go there often..

The road from Iraklio to Rethymno is fantastic, there is sea on one side, mountains on the other, colourful oleanders on the both sides of the road… breathtaking.. On the way to Rethymno do not hesitate to stop in Sissi… You cannot go to Rethymno without passing it anyway.. Once you will see the Sissi sign, straight away you will notice local people selling oranges - 5kg/5 Euro, juicy and yummy :) once you are pumped up with vitamine C, stop at the beach in Bali. There are 4 little bays. First is the biggest one and you will see it as soon as you will enter Bali. My favourite is the fourth bay, a little more difficult to find, but worth the effort. Small sandy beach in a bay with crystal blue water.. When you will get hungry there is a great taverna in the shadow of the trees just few steps from the beach.

Next place to stop is 18 km from Rethymno. A scenic mountain road will lead you to Arcadi Monastery -Crete's eternal symbol of freedom. on this website you can find some history which will explain you why this place is so important for the Cretan freedom and what exactly happened there http://www.stigmes.gr/br/brpages/articles/arkadi.htm.  At the moment there are still some nuns living in there… some cats as well:) The architecture is amazing, the yard inside the monastery is nicely decorated with flowers… you can never tell that it actually hides some of very painful historical moments for Cretan nation.

If you want to have a better look at the cretan life in the traditional villages further away from the sea, it’s worth visiting Anogia and closeby villages like Axos, Zoniana, Livadia. Anogia is known as a place of wealthy sheep breeders. But from locals we found out that their money has nothing to do with the sheep and in Crete I guess it’s a public secret what exactly they do, but we were very curious to actually go there and check it out by ourselves. As for an inland village they are building new big houses, on the road you will not see any old car… all huge pick-ups… we have seen only men wearing black trousers and boots and shirts… almost like in the postcards… on some of the houses we have seen painted guns and knives. Well every self respected cretan man actually owns at least one gun, so it didn’t surprise us. When we have seen a group of boys passing us by playing with lets hope toy guns, we got a little scared haha So decided not to intrude anymore their life and move to another village Zoniana.

Next to Zoniana there is the biggest cave in Crete called Sfendoni Cave. Impressive for those who enjoy seeing stalactites and stalagmites.. So as it was the biggest cave in Crete we of course had to go there and see. So we did. And then continued to Livadia and Axos. On the way to Livadia we have seen some road signs with bullet holes… It used to be a wedding tradition as we were told to shoot at the road signs.. Overall it was a very interesting journey just to see these villages of Crete where they keep their old traditions and are famous for their militancy.

Around 30km south from Rethymno there is another great place called Lappa. The road to Lappa goes through some traditional small villages among which we have lost our way a little. But I guess this is one thing you should never worry about as local people are always happy to help you out… in greek of course.. but the international body language will do as well:) Shortly once you will lose your way, do not hesitate to ask. In Lappa you will find the natural cosmetics shop Lappa Avocado. If you do not know where to go further, just ask in the shop which way to go, you will be provided with detailed information. After the sightseeing in Lappa you can relax a little by having a seat in one of few tavernas among the waterfalls… Extremely refreshing:)

I shouldn’t forget to mention the only freshwater nature lake in the island – Kournas lake. It is on the way from Rethymno to Chania, right before Georgioupolis. You will be able to enjoy an extraordinary landscape of the lake surrounded by the hills from one of the cafes near Kournas. If you will go down to the lake, make sure you will take a waterbike and have a tour around the lake. Most probably you will be told to look for the turtles that are supposed to live there… Not sure if there are any… but at least it gives you some sort of goal for the waterbike ride:) There live some water snakes though:)

Iraklio

What can I say about Iraklio.. I do not like the city at all.. However recently the coast line has been fixed and now it actually looks great. To Iraklio we used to go when we wanted to go out as there are some very nice caffes and bars... Just was always wondering why greek people actually do not dance in there, just nod their heads to the rythm with the coctails in their hands... I guess it will remain a mystery :))) however if you wish some trendy places to sit in or nod your head to the music, Iraklio is the place to go...Envy is a nice place by the sea, Desire and Big Fish used to be good... In the center of town, not far from the fountain there is a whole street full of bars and people, so you may wanna hang around there for a while...Need to check what is going on now though.. Will do that:)

For young people whose holiday goal is to have fun should choose Hersonissos or Malia. Very very touristic places, but full of shops, half naked people, bars, discos, car, bike rental companies, in Hersonissos you can ride a horse on the beach... well in these places you can find pretty much everything for fun... Malia has a very good sandy beach which is a huge plus for the resort, while Hersonissos doesn't really. In Hersonissos the beaches are very small, mostly pebbles... One thing you shouldn't miss in Hersonissos is to visit the villages of Priskopiano and Koutouloufari that are situated right above Hersonissos (that is a little up the mountain from new Hersonissos) . Traditional villages with lots of tavernas with a view of Hersonissos.. Which one to choose?? well from my experience the more attention is paid to the interier of taverna the less attention is paid to the food and choose tavernas where you see greek people eating as they know where the good food is.
Oh, one more thing:) In Hersonissos you will find a shop called Back To Nature, where you can find a wide range of natural cosmetics. The owner of the shop Mrs. Gordana is a wonderful lady who will help you to choose what suits you. She actually knows every product she is selling and is always ready to advice and just to chit chat. Found this shop like three years ago and still keep coming back:)

If you are into history and interested in the great minoan past, then you shouldn't miss the opportunity to visit Knossos palace, which is the most famous archeological site in the area. Of course it would be better to read some history first or even better to get a guide who can tell you about the palace, it's society, arts, pottery, religion and traditions. A guided tour is so much more interesting that just to go by yourselves to look at the ruins as the site has a great deal of stories to be told. You will deffinitely find out some interesting facts about the first known civilization in Europe. Knossos is like 3 km from Heraklio, so you can use the chance to go for shopping as well.

Archanes and Peza is worth your attention too. Archanes is only few km away from Iraklio and is a very cosy town to have a walk and have a better look at the cretan life further away from the coast, it has some nice tavernas as well. Peza and Archanes are the regions that grow grapes and are famous for their local wines, so don't miss a chance:)

Which beaches to go once you are in Iraklio? Well... first of all Malia has a good sandy beach, then there is a vast public sandy beach in Kokkini Chani with music playing, all nice and good. As soon as you will pass Kato Gouves on the way from Hersonissos to Iraklio, you will see the sign that leads you to Kokkini Chani. In this village you will also find a new Aquarium. Ammoudara has a long sandy beach as well. Ammoudara is one of the areas in Iraklio. You should look for an exit to Amoudara from the New National road. My favourite ones however are Lygaria and Agia Pelagia beaches which are small bays with nice sand and clear water... Perfect:) These two beaches are situated few km after Iraklio. Again easily found from the National Road. Look for the exit signs:)
Another place worth seeing is Fodele village (27km east from Iraklio) where supposedly or for real the famous painter, sculptor and architect of the Spanish Renaissance Domenikos Theotokopoulos was born. More known as El Greko. In Fodele you can find his house and museum and have a seat in many of Fodeles tavernas by the small river in the shadow of platan trees. Extremely refreshing during the hot summer days. You will find there many craft shops aswell.

One of my favourite places near Iraklio is taverna O KOYMOS. You should take an exit to Anogia and follow the road to Krousonas for a while... then well... ask me:)) It's in the middle of nowhere, but this is a place I always get back now because it's absolutely fantastic, interior decorated with cretan attributes, cretan music and great fresh food for a very good price.. Never seen foreigners in there though, only me and my friends who are with me :) They do not have menu in any other language apart from greek, but I am sure you would manage to order:)

Another suggestion for a road trip :) Matala is the place to go. It is about 70 km South from Iraklio. You should look for the sign to Mires. Before you reach Matala - the famous place of 'Flower Children', the history lovers should shortly stop in Gortyna and Faistos, as after Knossos these are the most important archeological sites in the island. Matala has a great beach and you will be able to check out the hippi caves (well previously they have been used as prehistorical dwellings or worship places and later as tombs). It's worth spending a night in this area in one of many appartments or if you are into the wildlife, then there is a camping site there aswell..

Few km from Matala there is another village worth seeing called Aghia Galini. An idyllic location that lies at the South coast of Crete. The village is built on the hills surrounding the port giving an outstanding few of Lybian Sea. The beach is sandy, when you get into water it has stones. So if you wish to have a swim in there it is better to get the special footwear. In the beach of Aghia Galini was the first time that I have seen alive octopus (not in aquarium), right by the coast... It scared me a little though and later I was afraid to get into water:))) However the place is still great:))

Leading by my wish to explore the Southern part of Crete I turned towards Pyrgos and Tsoutsouros Bay... Lost my way couple of times because of the absence of road signs, but it's ok. Like this sometimes you can discover places you never thought they existed. Once when I took non asphalted road as I wanted to reach Tris Ekklisies, it took me to some vllage in the mountains near Mournia where I could see some houses, some washed black clothes hanging, but not even one person around... I felt like in some ghost town in the middle of nowhere.. I continued though.. And guess what:) Eventually I reached the dead end of the road. Did I mention that the road was very narrow and on my right there was a steep slope.. and I had to turn around... Oh my gosh.. i think I lost 10 years of my life there hehe thinking if I will crash here most probably nobody could even find me here:P Luckily all ended well and I found my way back:) The road to Tsoutsouros was quite fun as well... There was a part of the road where I was praying not to meet any car in front of me as I really did not see how 2 cars can pass on the same road.. So it was quiet of a journey:) Iiked Vianos village as well... I reached it when it was getting dark. Elder greek people were just sitting outside in cafeneio and waving me :) I guess not many visitors get there. So anyway, Southern Crete is so much different from touristic parts of the island.. So if you have time and wish, worth seeing it.. i am not even mentioning that there you can find plenty of great beaches with no people:)

Lasithi

If you find yourself in Lasithi area then you deffinitely should stop in Agios Nikolaos. It’s not a big town with a small lake in the centre of it and scenic surroundings. From there you can take a boat to Spinalonga island, which is considered to be the last leper colony in Europe (on your holiday time you may wanna read the book called 'The Island' by Victoria Hislop). The traditional village of Kritsa is worth attention too. It's around 9 km from Agios Nikolaos on the way to Sitia. If you will take the road from Agios Nikolaos to Elounda you will be able to enjoy outstanding views of Mirabello bay and later Elounda. Then you should continue following the beach road from Elounda to Plaka. Right in front of Plaka you will be able to see Spinalonga island, which is very close to the coast of Plaka village. Once you are in Plaka it would be a sin not to have a seat in one of fish tavernas you will find there like Giorgos for example. From Plaka you can take a boat to Spinalonga as well.

In order to discover eastern Crete you can go to Vai, the famous palm tree beach. Now for this place there are different opinions… In all the Crete guides it is written that you really should see this place. This is a good opportunity to discover Eastern Crete I must admit. You will get to know less touristic parts of the island, like Sitia, on the way you will be able to enjoy the sea and the mountain views. When close to Vai do not forget to visit Toplou monastery. From Agios Nikolaos you should head down to Ierapetra (South Crete), then follow the road on the Southern coast of Crete. You will pass couple of nice beaches like Agia Fotia and Makrigialos and continue your trip to Sitia (have some pretty good local wines and olive oil) and Vai. You can take the northern road to come back to Agios Nikolaos, do not leave it for the night because the road is very curvy, so it will be difficult to drive when it gets dark. I personally loved the trip to Vai (it takes all day actually), but I was there in the beginning of the season, that was in May when there are not that many tourists and not that hot, so the palms are still green as later in the season they dry and the beach is overcrowded (http://www.sfakia-crete.com/sfakia-crete/mapeastcrete2.html ). So my advice is if you are in Crete in the high season, better to skip Vai and better choose Chrisi island for example.

Chrisi island is south from Ierapetra. From Ierapetra the boat twice a day takes you to Chrisi and around 6-ish in the afternoon brings you back. There are no people living in there, so the island basically consists of white sand, cedar trees, there is one taverna and one bar and of course clear blue sea. Some people take their tents and sleeping bags and do some camping over there. Do not stay at the beach which is near the port, where the boat leaves you. To get to the Golden Beach you should cross the island... which will take you around.. 5 min:) It is a totally relaxing day to spend...

In Lasithi Region you will find one of the major mythological attractions in Crete, that is the birthplace of Zeus himself, which is called Zeus Cave or Dikteon Cave. You should take the road to Lasithi Plateau from Malia. This is an easy and scenic half day trip in the greenest part of Eastern Crete. On the way you can still find some ancient windmills for which Lasithi plateau was famous for, on the way you can stop in one of the villages which is called Krasi and get some local honey or wines, to see how the ancient venetian laundry places looked like or check the Platan tree which is told to be around couple of thousand years.. who knows.. Next stop in Kera monastery from where opens the view of wonderful surroundings of Lasithi. And of course the Zeus cave of stalactites and stalagmites. For people with heart or joint problems not recommended to climb up to the cave. You can always use the dunkey services if you wish to get into cretan spirit to take you up and then down. It's a funny view:) I preffered to actually go by foot:) 

Another place I recommend to go is Milatos Village. Actually there is nothing much in there, but in recent years this place has became so dear to me. Crete is not all about nature or sea.. Lets not forget people who make our stay unforgetable :) It doesn't matter how many times I come back to Crete, there is one place I will always go to, that is Milatos to Sokrates taverna where you will meet charismatic owner Sokrates and his wonderful wife Eleni, their kids Giorgos and Maria and always feel like at home. Fantastic place by the sea, great food and beautiful sunsets. Sometimes they organise live music evenings with cretan dances :)) very nice:)) last year we went to a local celebration which has been organised in the main square of the village by the church with live music and dances.. It gives you another feeling of Crete when you see the fishermen coming back from their night fishing and taking their morning raki at Sokrates.. No Name bar is the best bar in Milatos of course haha (not sure if it isn't the only one:P) Best wishes to the owner of it Mr.Kostas:) Apart from extremely welcoming people you can also visit the Milatos Cave where you can still find the bones of people who have been burned in there during the turkish occupancy. There is a little church inside the cave. You may need a torch when going inside as it is a bit dark. 

Map

Crete consists of 4 regions: Chania, Rethymno, Iraklio and Lasithi. Chania is considered to be the most beautiful town in Crete, then Rethymno, Agios Nikolaos (the capital of Lasithi region) and Iraklio. I am keeping coming back to Iraklio region… most probably because I know it and I feel the best in here.. In any case I do not think that western part of Crete is better than the east… it’s just different… If you would like luxury 5 star holiday, then I suggest you to go to Elounda (close to Aghios Nikolaos), there are couple of them around Hersinissos, few right before Rethymno and close to Chania. If you are looking for party time, then you should choose Hersonissos or Malia. Very touristic areas, but for young people it is perfect. If you are into mountain walking and wish to visit Samaria Gorge, then better to choose Chania, because it will save you a lot of time to get there as Samaria is very close to Chania. Tour operators normally do not have hotels in Sauthern Crete, but it is deffinitely worth visiting. In any case in whichever part of Crete you will stay there is always something interesting to see.

Crete

Crete was the first place i have seen in Greece. Came here for work 3 years ago for the first time.. To be honest I haven't been amazed in the beginning... By the end of the season I was swearing (and have many witnesses that later were mocking me haha) that I will NEVER EVER come back here :P Maybe that's why wise people are called wise when saying never say never :) I was working as a tour leader with my friend Ernesta and we had hell a  lot of work, so did not really have time to actually explore the place.. Now when I remember these days I think this was one of the best summers in my life just because it was one of these few possibilities to be able to work without having a boss looking over your shoulder all the time and telling you what to do... We were running, but managed quiet well :) that was team work, that I miss now... anyway, lets not get nostalgic:)) so a bit later in the season when we could find some free time, just used to get in the car and drive... to get to know Crete... So we could actually tell to people things that we have seen, not just read from lonely planet tourist guide which is a very good book by the way... More communication with local people has helped as well as they showed us the places that we ourselves maybe have never even consider going to... From quiet few people I have heard that they did not really like Crete... But they have spent all the time in their hotel (which most of the time do not correspond to their star rating) by the pool complaining about everything... Oh how we cannot leave our problems at home... So anyway welcome to Crete, the birthplace of Zeus, home of stubborn, but such welcoming people :D

Introduction

I think I should welcome myself into the blog world as this is the first time i am doing smth like that:) But as I have some free time on my hands at the moment I thought why not to try to write something about the country that I am in and totally love and maybe somebody can actually find some of my writings useful... If so I will be happy:) I have chosen English language as to my mind this is the language that the majority of you will understand to some extent... Comments in Lithuanian, English, Russian, Greek, French,Spanish and Italian are welcomed and I will do my best to answer in any of the languages mentioned above. By the way English is not my mother tongue, so I appologize in advance if you will find any mistakes :) Thank you for understanding :) Another thing I would like to point out is that whatever I will post is going to be my point of view and not some undeniable general truth, so you are more than welcome not to agree... I like discussions:)